Since you’ve got a pretty good concept of exactly how the different parts of your camera functions, we’re going to take a look at its various settings. No matter what camera you have, these settings are all the same in principle. You should consult your manual to find exactly how to activate the settings, but all of the settings are the same in how they operate. In this lesson, we’ll cover the essentials, and in the following lesson, we’ll have a look at hand-operated mode.
This lesson includes:
Shooting settings, or the different ways your camera could be used to capture the photo.
Flash, flash settings and how to use your flash.
What I prefer to shoot with.
Image enhancement modes.
A brief overview of video recording.
The majority of digital cameras have a couple of shooting modes, from manual to automatic and a few options in between. We’re going to take a look at the most common modes and also talk about when you should use each of them. You could not be familiar with terms like shutter aperture, rate and iso, however, don’t worry, we’ll be going over those thoroughly in the following lesson.
The Automatic mode takes care of everything for you. There’s not much to discuss right here.
The Program mode makes decisions on your aperture and also shutter speed automatically, however, gives you control over various other settings like ISO (the rating that influences how delicate your camera’s sensor is to light– just like film speed in older film cameras).
Modes that are specifically for certain situations are called Scene modes. Scene modes usually have icons to represent their purposes, such as a mountain for landscapes or a fast-moving individual for sports. Scene modes can be valuable if you desire the camera to aid you in photographing the sorts of images each mode is designed for, but hopefully, after you’re finished with these lessons you won’t want or need to keep using them. You’ll at least be using the Aperture Priority or Shutter Priority modes.
Shutter priority allows you to set the shutter speed and ISO but enables the camera to establish the aperture instantly. This setting is beneficial if the shutter speed is the most crucial factor to consider when taking a picture.
Aperture top priority permits you to establish the aperture and ISO but allows the camera set the shutter rate instantly. When the aperture is the most crucial consideration in your photograph, this is beneficial. Because it is one of the most significant contributing factors to the depth-of-field, the aperture could have the most significant aesthetic impact on your photos. This depth-of-field is often the most sought-after visual feature of photography when you’re starting out because it’s the most prominent point of difference from everyone else and a standard point-and-shoot camera.
A wide aperture (represented by a low f-stop like f/1.8) will create a picture where your subject is in sharp emphasis; however, the background is blurred and out-of-focus. This works for portraits or focusing on something that needs to be isolated from the background, such as a glass of water on a table, for example. A narrow aperture (a higher f-stop, like f/10) will take a photo where almost everything is sharply in focus. This works for landscapes, or any other circumstance where making a lot of things equally in focus to one another, and no one feature is meant to stand out from the rest. Wide apertures (a smaller f-stop, like f/2.8) allows more light to hit the sensor, so they’re perfect for when you don’t have much light and might not have a flash handy.
Aperture Priority and Shutter Speed Priority are my favourite modes because you can still choose your ISO (sensitivity to the light). Don’t worry if you’re a bit lost at this stage when we’re talking about aperture, shutter speed and ISO. We’ll be reviewing aperture, shutter speed and also ISO in far more detail in the next lesson.
Your camera has a few flash modes, as well as the majority of them you’ll never ever need. Right here’s what they’re called and also precisely what they do.
Automatic flash will only fire the flash when required. The camera figures it out by reviewing the current light on the subject. This typically takes place when there isn’t really enough light throughout the frame or if the subject is backlit and shows up dark to the camera.
Automatic flash with red-eye reduction works the same as the other automated flash mode yet attempts to decrease the red-eye result that sometimes appears in portraits, making the subject look far more devilish than they do in real life. You might as well use this one if you’re going to use an automatic flash setting. I honestly don’t know why these flash features come separately rather than just reducing red-eye by default.
Forced/fill flash forces the flash to fire with every photo no matter whether or not the camera thinks it’s essential. This is the mode you pick when you know you’re always going to require the flash but think the camera might make an incorrect decision.
Slow shutter flash (with red-eye reduction) is exactly what you want to make use of in a really low-light scenario, as the shutter speed will be minimised and the flash has to work differently to compensate for it. If you’re using an automatic setting, the camera will certainly figure out when this is needed and also do it immediately. If you know you need a slow-moving shutter flash, you can force it with this mode.
No flash is pretty obvious. It switches the flash off so it won’t be used in any type of circumstance.
More modern and high-end flashes will have additional settings as well as setups on external flash systems themselves, so if you have one of these, experiment and have fun!
Not all cameras have image enhancement setups, but it has become a lot more common in modern DSLR cameras as well as better small video cameras in recent years. If you do have these options, the options you should pay the most attention to are lighting improvements and noise decreases.
Even though this course is about photography, not videography, some people like to know that their camera can do both. So this is a brief overview of video recording.
Video mode differs substantially between the different kinds of cameras. Point-and-shoot cameras can focus much quicker in video mode and operate very similar to a dedicated video camera. DSLR cameras are more popular for video than point-and-shoot cameras or mirrorless cameras, and that’s because they generally create a higher quality video.
Videos are generally recorded as an AVI, MOV, or MP4. These modes are the most common and can directly be uploaded to YouTube or Vimeo. If it doesn’t, you can convert it with many tools such as Permute.
That’s all for this lesson, and in the next lesson, we’ll be diving right into your camera’s manual settings, and discovering how they affect its operation and the images it produces.